August 2022 Newsletter

The summer season is upon us. With no major Hermes auction scheduled until September, this month’s newsletter will feature articles I’ve written in the past few months:

Rare Hermès Birkin Styles

Hermès Hardware

Hermès Exotic Skins - Shiny or Matte?

Perfect for Summer: The Canvas Birkin or Kelly Bag

Hermès Birkin Sellier: A More Structured Birkin Bag

Rare Hermès Kelly Clutches for the Dedicated Collector

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Rare Birkin Styles

Even though the Birkin is an iconic design recognised the world over, there are rare Birkin styles that are almost never seen. With the recent release of the new HAC A Dos, which borrows its main design elements from the Birkin (or HAC, whose design preceded the Birkin’s) we thought it timely to highlight some lesser-known Birkin styles:

Slim Birkin

The Slim Birkin is one of the rarest on our list, with only a handful ever coming onto the secondary market. This slender style maintains almost all of the classic Birkin elements, with the depth cut in half. Examples have been seen in both 30 and 35cm sizes.

Birkin Cabas

The rare Birkin Cabas forgoes the Birkin’s iconic flap for an open-top design that maintains the sangle/pontet closure. Produced exclusively via special order, this 48cm tote also features three rows of feet at the base. Examples of the Birkin Cabas are as rare as the Slim Birkin.

Birkin Depeches

Equally as rare as the previous two designs on this list, the Birkin Depeches combines the body of a Kelly Depeches briefcase with the top styling of a classic Birkin. Produced in extremely limited numbers in the mid-2000’s this 35cm bag is almost never seen on the secondary market.

Long-Handle Birkin

With designs dating back as far as 1990, the 45cm Long Handle Birkin has the longest history of any bag on this list. Produced primarily by special order, this bag has been hailed as a great Birkin for men. The Long handles are ideal for over-the-shoulder use and the expanded capacity opens up all sorts of opportunities. 

Micro Birkin

First seen in Jean-Paul Gaultier’s final runway show, the 15cm micro Birkin made a big splash after JPG’s departure. The 2011 Candy collection saw the new diminutive style produced in new exciting candy colors. Micro Birkins can be found in Epsom and Swift, as well as Lizard, and are quite rare on today's market. Average auction prices for these bags have topped $20,000 for two years in a row now, proving the collectibility of this adorable design.

JPG Shoulder Birkin

Jean-Paul Gaultier’s namesake design, the JPG Shoulder Birkin was introduced in Gaultier’s first collection for Hermes. Produced from 2004 to 2013, the Shoulder Birkin can be found in many colors and materials, including rare examples in crocodile, ostrich, suede and denim with Barenia. Limited Edition Potamos and Leoleila JPG Birkins exist as well but are extremely rare. At 42cm across at the base, the JPG Birkin has exaggerated handles that fit over the shoulder. Nearly a decade after its last production, the JPG Birkin has been rising in value on the secondary market in recent years. 

Honorable Mention: Jypsiere

Another design of Gaultier’s, the Jypsiere is meant to be a crossbody Birkin. First released in 2008 and still in production today, the Jypsiere has been produced in 28, 31, 34 and 37cm sizes, with 28cm Jypsieres sometimes made in matte crocodile. Jypsieres are found in many different colors and leathers. Hermes has recently hinted at the upcoming release of a Mini Jypsiere, which, if the success of the Mini Lindy is any indication, will quickly become a must-have for Hermes lovers around the world. 

Hardware

Gold or Palladium? A big question for many Hermes lovers all over the world. It's not uncommon to find a collection dedicated to one or the other. But the question of Hardware goes deeper than this dichotomy. Hermes has only used a handful of finishes for their iconic Birkin and Kelly hardware. A Preference for white or yellow gold jewelry is a good starting point for choosing a bag’s hardware, but what about the other options? 

PVD

The So Black collection that marked Jean-Paul Gaultier’s departure from Hermes has become one of the most collectible editions of the Birkin and Kelly in existence. These bags sport the unique PVD coated hardware that gives the bags their So Black look. Known to scratch irreparably, PVD hardware has only since been used with limited runs of small non-Birkin/Kelly bags, and most recently on the highly collectible Midnight Faubourg Birkin.

Ruthenium

First seen in the highly collectible Millenium Moonlight Kellys produced in 2000, Ruthenium hardware was mainly used from 2004 to 2007. The dark gunmetal finish was paired with many lizard bags from this time, as well as the series of bi-color Birkins featuring colored piping and trim against shiny dark crocodile or box bodies. Limited Edition tri-color Togo Birkins and Kellys from this period also sport Ruthenium hardware.

Permabrass

This champagne-gold toned hardware was first used in 2011’s Club Birkins, and has since made appearances on a number of other limited editions including Tadelakt Ghillies bags, Ostrich Ghillies, Grand Marriage, Flag Birkins, Grizzly, and some colorways from the Candy collection. Since 2017, Permabrass has only been available via Special Order.

Rose Gold

The newest hardware from Hermes, Rose Gold was introduced in 2018 and has become a favorite song collectors for its warm pink finish. Prices for regular leather Birkins and Kellys with Rose Gold hardware remain over 25% higher than those with Gold or Palladium hardware, though the gap between Gold and Rose Gold has narrowed as more examples of this still-rare hardware come to market. To make the rarity of Rose Gold clear, it makes up only about 5% of the secondary market.

Guilloche

One of the rarest and least-known hardwares Hermes has used for Birkins and Kellys is Guilloche. Palladium Guilloche Birkins, Kellys and Kelly Pochettes and Cuts in either Black, Argile, Blue de Prusse or Gris Perle Tadelakt leather were produced in very limited numbers from 2012-2014, though the hardware was first used around 2003-2005 in Kelly Kellys in a variety of different colors. This is also the only time when Gold Guilloche hardware was used. The diamond pattern takes it’s roots from fine metal smithing, and lends the hardware a unique texture. 

Brushed Hardware

Today, Brushed Hardware, either Gold or Palladium, is most associated with HSS special order bags. For many  years that has been the only way Hermes has used the finish. But over the last two decades Hermes has also used Brushed hardware for a number of Limited Editons. Most recently, 2014’s Chambray Toile Kellys and 2013’ Denim Ghillies Birkins were paired with Brushed Palladium, as were both versions of the Cascade Birkins produced in the prior two years. Dalmatian Birkins and Kellys from the early 2000’s can be found with Brushed Palladium hardware, as can Matte Crocodile bags with Toile interiors. Some solid color leather Birkins and Kellys were also produced around this time with Brushed Palladium. Brushed Gold hardware is extremely rare outside Special Orders, with only a handful of examples coming to market in the last decade.

Diamond

Birkins and Kellys with Diamond Hardware are the height of the handbag market. Diamond Himas its peak. Hermes uses close to 10 carats of VVS F diamonds and nearly 80 grams of 18 karat gold in the production of the hardware for a 35cm Birkin. Most are done with white gold, though rare examples exist with yellow gold. Hermes has also produced these bags with colored sapphires in the place of diamonds. Diamond Birkins and Kellys can be found in every size up to 40cm, in a variety of colors, in either matte or shiny porosus crocodile. Hermes has also produced diamond Kelly Cuts, Pochettes, Constances, Egees and Medor clutches. 

Matte vs. Shiny

Similar to how many Hermes collectors have a preference for either Gold or Palladium hardware, many also prefer exotics with a particular finish. In terms of Crocodile and Alligator, Hermes produces both Matte and Shiny, also referred to as Lisse finishes. The glossy effect of shiny crocodile or alligator comes not from an applied glaze, but rather through repeated buffing with a smooth agate stone until the scales are near mirror reflective. The Matte finish, on the other hand, is achieved through the use of wool felt that rubs the skin into a smooth soft texture that lends the bag more pliability. Shiny crocodile bags are far more stiff than their Matte cousins, which can become floppy with heavy use. 

In general, Sellier Kellys are made with shiny crocodile and alligator, whereas Retourne Kellys are done in Matte. This rule is not entirely held to, though, as Sellier mini Kelly 20 IIs can be found in Matte alligator, and Hermes has recently produced a few limited edition Sellier Kelly 28s that utilize Matte Alligator, such as the Vanille Alligator Touch Kelly with a Butler leather handle, or the bi-finish examples that feature Shiny Alligator bodies with Matte gussets and sangles. Hermes has also produced full Matte Sellier Kellys, though examples on the secondary market are few and far between. These are primarily 32cm and have been seen in Matte Blue Brighton, Ebene and Poussiere. Shiny Alligator Retourne Kellys were produced in the 1990’s in both 32 and 35cm, and are primarily found in Miel with Gold hardware, although other colors were also used. 

Birkins of all sizes are found in both Matte and Shiny crocodile or alligator. The recently introduced Sellier Birkins have also been spotted in both finishes. About 60% of crocodile and alligator Birkins and Kellys sold at auction have a shiny finish, and the prices achieved at auction are starting to reflect Matte’s relative rarity. When compared to Shiny bags, the prices paid at auction for Matte Birkins and Kellys have reversed positions over the last five years. In 2017, Matte bags averaged almost $13,000 less than shiny bags. So far in 2022 they have averaged over $10,000 more, far outpacing 2021’s nearly $5,000 average price premium.

Over the last decade average auction prices for all alligator and crocodile Birkins and Kellys have vacillated between $40,000 and $55,000, with Matte bags rising steadily since 2018’s $39,500 nadir. These averages, though, are less consistent when we control for size. The biggest difference is achieved by 28cm Kellys, Matte versions of which have averaged around $30,000 more than Shiny examples over the last two years. Matte 25cm Birkins and Kellys have always averaged more than Shiny versions, commanding a premium of about $6,500 over the last five years. Shiny crocodile or alligator Birkin 35s still average more than their Matte sisters, though, with premiums averaging 6% so far in 2022. It is predicted large Matte Birkins will soon increase in value as large bags come back in fashion and the practicality and rarity of Matte exotics becomes apparent. Shiny crocodile bags can be temperamental, prone to develop permanent matte spots wherever even a single drop of water touches the skin. With use, wrinkles can develop on the scales, particularly on the flap, whereas Matte exotics are not prone to these issues. In lighter colors, Matte alligator can darken from contact with skin, through the transfer of oils or moisturizers, though dark Matte bags are largely spared any of these issues. 

A new finish, termed Boreal Satin, has begun trickling out of Hermes’ workshops. Primarily used in bracelets, Boreal Satin Alligator Constance bags have begun appearing on the market.This finish has been spotted in Nata, Blue Brume, Jaune Citron and Rose Bubblegum, the last three of which are new colors in Hermes’ exotic pantheon. It is predicted we will soon see Sellier Birkins and Sellier Kellys done in Boreal Satin Alligator.

Canvas Birkins and Kellys

Canvas might seem like an odd choice for what has become known as the most valuable bag in the world, but at Hermes, all materials are treated with equal reverence and respect. Birkins and Kellys with beige ‘Toile' bodies have been produced for decades, along with versions in ‘Officier’ canvas that have a tighter weave and come in different colors. Toile GM is a more recent canvas that takes the classic Toile and magnifies it to highlight the weave. Other solid canvases like Criss and Burlap are found primarily on HACs, and the new Toile Goeland is used for Cargo Birkins. Panama is canvas adjacent, woven from straw and prone to permanent damage if the straw is broken. Denim Birkins and Kellys have experienced a resurgence of popularity as the 1990’s and early 2000’s come back into style, and new Quadrille canvas Birkins and Kellys have started to emerge from Hermes’ workshops in new and exciting colors. But what gets Hermes collectors really excited are the printed canvas bags, of which there are many variations to collect.

30cm Potamus Birkins:

Potamus 

Potamus bags, which date from 2006-2007, were produced in four colors: Orange, Burgundy, Blue and Red, each with black box leather trim. Potamus Birkins can be found in 35 and 30cm sizes, and rarely surface as JPG Shoulder Birkins. Potamus Kellys are far less common than Birkins and were produced in 35 and 32cm retourne sizes. Sometimes spelled Potamos, neither translates in French, but in Latin and Greek the terms mean Drink and River respectively.

Let to Right: (Top) Dechainee Birkin 35, Mosaique Birkin 35, Riga Birkin 35, Flag Birkin 35 (Bottom) Gange Birkin 35, Jumping Birkin 35, Lainage Birkin 35, Feutre Birkin 35

Flag

Flag Birkins, which were produced in either 35 or 40cm, feature a bold stripe of colored canvas running down the front of the bag. Topped with Barenia leather, Flag Birkins were produced in three colorways: Beige with either orange or blue center stripes in 2013 and 2014 and navy with a blue stripe which launched in 2015 and was made into 2016. This Flag motif was also produced in HACs, though Flag Kellys are different, featuring a similar central stripe, but in all-leather construction and different colors. The bold design is meant to evoke sailing signals, making the lightweight canvas construction ideal for life on deck.

35cm Gange Toile Birkins:

Gange 

In 2008 for the Year of India Hermes released Toile Birkins and Kellys with embroidered stripes down the front in either green, red or rainbow colorways, representing the flow of the Ganges river. These bags are primarily found in 35cm, though 30 and 32cm examples do exist.

Riga

Riga Toile was produced in 2016 as either 35cm Birkins or 35cm Lakis Kellys. The thin vertical green and white stripes are paired with Vert Anglais Swift trim and Palladium hardware. Today it is very difficult to find these bags on the market.

35cm Mosaique Birkins:

Mosaique

Produced in 2007 the Mosaique canvas takes reference from Hermes’ classic Bolduc ribbon. Stripped of all branding and color the open weave design is formed seamlessly with the classic Toile. Only found in 35 and 30cm, Mosaique Birkins are topped with Marron d’Inde Buffalo leather and come in beige, gray and pink canvas colorways. 

Feutre

In 2019 Hermes launched a line of lightweight felt bags, called Feutre in french. This material was used in Evelynes, Picotins, HACs and 35cm Birkins and while many different colorways exist for the other styles, Birkins are only found in dark blue and green variations. These bags have unlined interiors with no pockets and are topped with Swift leather. No Feutre Birkins have yet sold at auction.

Lainage

First seen on Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2006 runway show, alongside a matching suit, the Lainage Birkin features a brown and beige plaid wool body topped with Ebene Clemence leather. Produced as both 35 and 30cm, this houndstooth-pattern wool Birkin is extremely rare on the market today.

Jumping 35 and 30cm Birkins, Kelly 35 and HAC 32:

Jumping

First released in 2008, the Jumping Canvas was created in two different color-ways, one more neutral with beige and red stripes on a brown ground, and one with vibrant yellow and blue stripes replacing the beige and a gray ground. This series was only produced through 2009 and is mostly found as 30 or 35cm Birkins, though Kellys and small HACs were also made using Jumping Canvas. The inspiration for this design stems from Hermes’ equestrian roots.

Dechainee 

 In 2017 and 2018 Hermes used one of their most distinct prints in the production of Birkins, Kellys and Constances. The Dechainee design features sketches of various Hermes bracelets and is done on a fabric called Toile de Camp.  The only Dechainee Birkins are 35cm with black Swift leather trim, whereas the only Kellys are 28cm examples with Barenia trim. Dechainee Constances have been produced in both black and bordeaux versions.

Left to Right: (Top) Dechainee Kelly 28, Letrres au Carre Kelly 28, Cavalcadour Kelly 32 (Middle) Couverture Kelly 28, Couverture Kelly 32 (Bottom) Jumping Kelly 35, Potamos Kelly 32, Gange Kelly 32

Cavalcadour 

The Calvacadour Kelly is one of Hermes’ most colorful printed bags. Produced exclusively as a 32cm Sellier Kelly between 2016 and 2018, this design is particularly special for its rear exterior slip pocket, which is only found on one other modern Kelly edition: the Berline. The design features multi-color belts and buckles printed on Toile de Camp and trimmed with black Swift leather.

Lettre Au Carre 

In 2018, along with their more well-known leather Lettre Kellys, Hermes released another version, a 28cm Retourne example with printed Toile de Camp featuring the entire Lettre geometric alphabet in black and red. Topped with Black Swift leather, the Lettres au Carre Kelly is much harder to find than its all-leather Lettre cousins.

Couverture de Jour 

Another Kelly whose roots reach into Hermes’ equestrian heritage is the Couverture de Jour Kelly. Produced from 2010-2011 in either olive or red colorways with Barenia trim, the Kelly is found almost exclusively in 32cm, though rare 28cm versions do exist. Paired with a thick Amazone canvas strap, the design features a prominent horse on the front, leading many to dub this bag the Horse Kelly.

Sellier v Retourne

For decades Hermes collectors have had to choose between two different Kellys: Retourne and Sellier. The two different constructions create two different bags. Sellier Kellys display their stitching on the exterior giving the bag a stiff straight edge, whereas Retourne Kellys hide their stitching on the interior and display soft curved edges with a line of leather piping framing the bag. Until Recently, all Birkins were made in Retourne construction, though a few years ago Hermes began producing Birkins with Sellier edges. The design made its first appearance in 2014 with limited edition Vache Hunter 40cm Sellier Birkins. These were unlined and featured many unique design elements. A few years later Hermes began producing Sellier Birkins with fully realized interiors and has kept producing them since. Sellier Birkins are found in 25, 30 and 35cm sizes in a number of leathers including Box, Epsom, Madame, Monsieur, and Vache Naturelle Grainee. Since 2020 Sellier Birkins have had a presence on the auction market, though still only account for about 5% of Birkins sold at auction. Their average price at auction has continued to rise, nearing $28,000 in 2022, 70% above Retourne Birkin’s $16,500 average. These numbers account for bags between 25 and 35cm, excluding limited editions, exotics and special orders. Sellier Kellys have averaged between 25% and 35% above Retourne Kellys during the same period, with prices rising about 10% annually. Average prices for Retourne Kellys recently topped $15,000, with Sellier Kellys nearing $20,000. 

Faubourg Sellier Birkin

The ultra-collectible 20cm Faubourg Sellier Birkin was first released in 2019 with day and night versions featuring intricate façades crafted from multiple leathers evoking the architecture of Hermes’ flagship Paris boutique at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honore, and matte Alligator flaps. An instant hit with collectors, these bags have averaged over $185,000 at auction, more than three times their reported retail price of under $50,000. In 2021 and 2022 new La Neige and Midnight So Black versions were released. The La Neige Faubourg Birkin features a matte Beton Alligator body and snow atop the Orange awnings. The Midnight Faubourg has black PVD hardware reminiscent of that used in the highly collectible So Black collection, and glowing yellow windows. These two trade privately for upwards of $300,000. Collecting all four of these tiny treasures is a mark of achievement for any Hermes collector, and the full set is sometimes referred to as a Beijing Courtyard or a Place du Faubourg.

Sunrise & Sunset Sellier Birkins

Released in 2020, the Sunrise and Sunset Birkins features  bold curved stripes of color set against a 35cm Sellier Birkin frame. Averaging around $34,000 at auction, the curve on these Birkins is derived from the curve of a Birkins’ top edge. Recently a third colorway has been seen in Bolides, evoking dusk, though this has yet to be seen on a Birkin. 

Rare Kelly Clutches

The iconic Kelly bag has many different versions to love and collect. Kelly clutches are a favorite among Hermes lovers for their petit sizes and relative rarity. Kelly pochettes have been rising in value dramatically over the last few years as a practical alternative to the new mini Kelly 20 II, while the longer flat Kelly Cut clutches have been declining in value as tastes and trends shift. Here we’re looking at some lesser known Kelly clutches that have become highly sought-after among dedicated collectors.

Kelly Crutch

With examples dating from 1989 to 2000, the Kelly Crutch Clutch, though small, has had a longer production run than any other Kelly clutch. This slim pouch is truly handle free, and sports a unique miniature hardware that hooks around a geometric ball pontet. At just 21cm across at the base, all other Kelly clutch designs stem from this original diminutive Crutch Clutch. 

Kelly Elan

Produced primarily from 2000-2002 in smooth leathers like Box and Box Nepal, as well as shiny crocodile and alligator, the 28cm Kelly Elan appears to be fully handleless, though close inspection reveals that the sangles connect around back to form a strap that lays flat against the back of the bag, and is perfect to slide your hand though. Examples of this rare clutch can be found dating from later years as well. 

Kelly Longue

A design of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s, the Kelly Longue was produced from 2006 to 2008 in a variety of materials and colors. The trapezoidal clutch bears similarities to the Kelly Elan, though lacks the flat base and adds the flat handle still found today on Pochettes and Cuts. It is also far larger with a base measuring 34cm. 

Honorable Mention: The Susan

The Susan, designed for socialite philanthropist and Hermes collector Susan Casden, is somewhat mythical among Hermes lovers. The epitome of a personal ‘Horizon’ order, the susan bag utilizes the iconic Kelly closure in an easy and practical shoulder bag with two front magnetic flap pockets and one rear slip pocket. Reportedly produced for others only with Casden’s permission, examples of this bag are almost never found on the secondary market. It is rumored Hermes will no longer make bespoke Horizon order bags with Birkin or Kelly related designs, making the Susan even more special.