Constant Style
Charting the Evolution of the Hermes Constance
As a shoulder bag, the Hermes Constance occupies a unique place in BKC Trinity (Birkin/Kelly/Constance). Its function is not its only defining factor, though, setting this third style apart is also its bold H clasp. What could be considered a logo, the H is what makes the Constance instantly recognizable to Hermes collectors and Handbag lovers everywhere. In its seventh decade of production, the Constance has enjoyed few design changes over the years. Variations on the original include either one or two gusseted interior compartments, interior slip and or zip pockets, rear exterior slip pockets, and the inclusion of a Mirror. Primarily produced in two sizes, 18cm and 24cm, the Constances has also been found in Micro 14cm, 23cm, 25cm, 29cm and even 34cm sizes (the largest of which I have only seen once). In addition to these, the Constance Elan, which was in production from 2010 to 2017 is also 25cm across, and sports the longest strap of them all, well fit for crossbody use.
When it comes to Limited Editions, the Constance simply has too many to list in their entirety. The most striking examples are the Nigel Peake designed On A Summer’s Day Constances (Auc.Avg $19,391), which feature vibrant printed Swift leather. At the same time, an all black version dubbed On a Summer’s Night (Auc.Avg $13,131) was produced featuring the same pattern in variations of shiny and matte black Swift leather. Other limited features that have been found on Constances include buckles finished with Alligator, Lizard, Leather, Enamel or Stone, hardware made of mirrors or that glows in the dark. Unique materials like corduroy and marbled silk as well as suede, and embroidered or printed textiles can also be found.
At the top of the spectrum are Diamond Constances, the solid 18k Gold buckles of which are encrusted with the stuff. Extra-exceptional examples sporting baguette diamonds have also been seen. Recently Himalaya Constances have also been spotted in top-level collections, and three examples have come to auction so far. These have averaged just shy of $110,000, and all sold within a stone’s throw of each other. Diamond Constances, on the other hand, have sold for wildly varied values. Only four have ever sold at auction, and looking closely at their hardware, we can understand why one sold so much higher than the others. Two examples sold at Heritage auctions; a Blue Jean one in 2013 for $50,000 and a Black one in 2015 for $56,250 (the production years of these two are not listed), along with a 2015 Bougainvillea example sold by Christie’s in 2023 for $107,100 all sport a diamond layout that allots 3 rows on the center clasp and one on the strap guides. A Blue Electric example sold by Christie’s in 2021 dating to 2017 features an updated diamond layout with 5 and six rows on the clasp, and two on the guides. While the individual diamonds are smaller, the overall carat weight increases to 8.57 from 6.67 in the previous design. This Diamond Constance achieved nearly $192,000.
Regular Leather Constances have experiences a sea-change since 2016, with Mini 18cm versions overtaking the larger 24cm ones and continuing to open the gap. Back in 2016 24s averaged nearly 7% more than 18s, but those positions slowly switched with markups for minis growing from an average 0.26% in 2016 to over 31% today. Overall leather Constances are down 6.14% in 2023 compared with 2022’s auction results, but prices still top 2020’s and all years prior. The last decade has seen average auction prices for Regular Leather Constance increase an average of 4.36% annually, staying solidly above $10,000 and appearing to creep somewhat steadily towards 15. Their Limited Edition sisters, which encompass examples as disparate as Nigel Peak’s colorful Constances to those with merely Rose Gold or Enamel hardware, invariably average above regular leather, but this year the numbers have grown closer than ever, and a markup of only 5.5% can be expected.
The classic exotics, crocodile and alligator, can be found in both Shiny and Matte finishes, the latter of which is generally higher valued today. Matte exotic Constances are almost always Alligator, I have never seen a Matte Porosus Crocodile Constance, and I’ve only ever seen two Matte Nilos that weren’t Himas. Overall, Matte Alligator Constances average 10% above Shiny Alligator . Regarding the Crocodiles, Shiny Porosus Constances average 17% more than Shiny Nilo ones.
Recently Lizard Constances have overtaken Crocodile and Alligator ones, even accounting for Ombre Lizard Constances as a separate category. While Ombres have consistently averaged above all others, prices for these uniquely ringed bags mirror those of other exotics, spiking in 2021 before overcorrecting down below pre-pandemic levels. Now prices appear to be on the rise again, at least for these exotics.
Ostrich Constances are a different story than other precious skins. These have always traded closer to the price of Limited Edition Constances, with the highest auction result set by the first example of a modern Ostrich Constance 24 (Vert Titien with Gold hardware) sold by Christie’s in November 2017 for nearly $27,250. Since then, average prices have remained firmly below $20,000. The reason for this stark value differential is unclear, as Ostrich Constances retail at a similar price point to Lizard ones, though are not quite as rare.
Silk is a particularly special material that has been used for Constances for a while. Solid color silk Constance Elans and Micros can be found dating back the farthest, but more recently the colorful Marble Silk Constances have held the spotlight. Hermes utilized a traditional Japanese marbling technique to create the textile used in these bags. Each one is unique with a slightly different interplay of color. Generally prices have declined since their auction debut in 2021, which saw the highest price acheived for the style at $29,669. Produced in both 24 and 18cm sizes, the larger examples hav averaged $20,915 at auction, whereas the Minis have averaged just under $17,800. Prior to these Marble Silk Constances, Hermes produced another Limited Edition featuring “Brazil” printed silk bodies with leather trim. Produced in 2014, these 18cm Constances came in orange and blue colorways. Only two have ever come to auction, making these some of the rarest Constances in existence.
Exotic Constances such as Crocodile and Alligator have been produced since the design’s inception, and vintage examples in other discontinued skins like Beluga and Karung can also be found. Vintage Lizard and Ostrich Constances exist but were produced in vary sparse numbers until more recently. Around 2018 Hermes increased their production of Lizard and Ostrich Constances notably, and the auction market began seeing new examples cross the block regularly. The vast majority of these are 18cm examples, those a few 24s in both skins have been spotted.
The category of “Vintage Constances” is too vast to dissect, and the range of prices is much more limited. The majority of Vintage Constances are Box leather, and most are the larger size, with a single gusset and gold hardware. In addition to the exotics still produced today, vintage Constances can be found in other precious skins, too, such as Caiman crocodile, Beluga, Karung and more. There are also discontinued textiles like Ulysse Canvas, Crinoline (though Hermes produced a few Limited Edition crinoline Constances somewhat recently), and Panama, which is a woven straw, and is extremely delicate.
The latest version of the Constance to emerge from Hermes’ workshops is called the I-18 and the I-24. For years Hermes had been producing exclusively double gusset Constances, but the Is mark a shift back towards the single-compartment design. Not enough of these have come to auction yet, so we can’t be sure how many gussets the market prefers, but the initial results we’ve seen indicate the I’s have it, at least for now.
The Hermes Constance is undeniably a timeless icon in the realm of luxury handbags. Its unmistakable H clasp, limited-edition designs, and the range of materials used over the decades underscore its significance in the world of Hermes. From vintage versions in rare exotic skins to modern renditions utilizing avant-garde materials, each iteration of the Constance tells a story of artistry, craftsmanship, and evolution. The fluctuating auction values highlight the market's ever-changing appetite, though the underlying constant (pun intended) remains the reverence for this bag's heritage. As with all things Hermes, the Constance continues to intrigue and enthrall collectors, aficionados, and the luxury-minded alike. While its past is filled with rich history and remarkable tales of luxury, the future seems equally promising with innovations like the I-18 and I-24. As it stands, the Hermes Constance is not just a mere accessory; it is an enduring emblem of sophistication, quality, and style.