December Auction Calendar
The Ultimate Guide to December's Elite Handbag Auctions
As the calendar turns to December, the excitement and opportunity of the season’s last handbag auctions come into sharp focus. Esteemed auction houses are set to unveil a selection that epitomizes the zenith of luxury and craftsmanship. With live previews on display in NYC at Christie’s, Sotheby’s and Heritage simultaneously on both Monday the 4th and Tuesday the 5th, there has never been a better time to be bidding on your favorite bags! This analysis embarks on an explorative journey through a curated collection that spans rare Hermes treasures and iconic designs. Each piece, a confluence of history, artistry, and exclusivity, offers a unique lens into the nuanced world of luxury fashion. Beyond mere accessories, these handbags stand as artifacts of cultural and aesthetic significance, embodying the intricate interplay between heritage, artisanal skill, and the relentless pursuit of perfection in high fashion.
Hindman - Online Chicago - December 1
Preview by appointment
An auction of mostly fashions and furs and lower-tier handbags, this sale contains a few interesting Hermes bags. I’m always sure to check Hindman’s sales thoroughly after missing a rare Kelly Bandeau that they sold in 2017 for $1,750 which later went on to sell at Christie’s in 2018 for $9,375 and again in 2022 for $35,500.
The most interesting bag in this sale for me is an extremely rare vintage Kelly 28 from 1994 with a body of Black Ardennes and handles, sangles, strap and clochette of Fauve Barenia leather (conservatively estimated at $5,000 - $7,000). The color combination is striking on its own, but the fuzing of discontinued and must-loved Ardennes with the ever-loved Barenia is a heritage marriage made in Hermes Collector Heaven.
The only other bag of interest is a double-miscatalogued Ostrich Kelly. Described as an Ardoise Ostrich Kelly 25, this is actually a Black Ostrich Kelly 28 with Palladium Hardware, though from their photos I cannot make out the stamp to confirm if it is actually from 2001 or not, but it certainly could be (accurately estimated at $15,000 - $20,000). Black is objectively the most practical color for Ostrich, as it won’t ever darken, a problem inherent with all other colors.
Heritage - Live Dallas - December 7
Highlights Preview - December 4 - 6, 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM ET - 445 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10022
Discussed in our previous article (November Auction Calendar Part I), as online bidding opens about a month before the sale at Heritage, here we will recap the most notable lots and add a few other interesting examples. It is well worth noting Heritage’s development in estimates for this sale; namely, there are none. The only price guidance offered is either the reserve if it has not been met, or the current bid if it has.
A Himalaya Birkin 30 from 2008, the first year the now world-famous Matte Himas were produced, as of this writing, is at only $26,000 with no apparent reserve above that. This presents a nearly unprecedented opportunity to acquire a Hima at a record-low price (the record low is currently held by Heritage for a Hima Birkin 30 from 2010 in heavily used condition that sold for $40,000 in 2017). Christie’s offered a Hima Birkin 25 from 2013 without reserve in a Hong Kong auction earlier this year. The result, $80,515, though still quite high considering bidding began at $1, was the lowest number achieved by a Hima 25 since 2017.
A striking Violet Lizard Birkin 25 from 2006 is also currently quite low with bidding at just $10,000. Lizard is, by the numbers, the rarest exotic Hermes produces, comprising less than 2% of the auction market for all Birkins and just over 10% of Birkin 25s.
An extremely rare Olive Box Kelly 32 with Palladium Guilloche hardware from 2003 is the first example of a Guilloche bag in this color I have seen (starting bidding conservatively at $3,500). Heralding from the original release, this version features the Hermes brand plaque prominently on the Plaque. Guilloche is the rarest Hermes hardware and is, in my opinion, quite underrated in the market at this moment.
An extremely rare Vintage Kelly 20 with a body of Crinoline and Parchemin Box trim from 1996 is the first example in this material I have seen in a very very long time. a true collector’s piece that is not likely to be seen on the market again for some time.
One of my favorite vintage designs appears here in spectacular form: A Passe Guide in shiny Black Porosus Crocodile with gold hardware (attractively reserved at $6,000). The date is not listed, which I understand as the stamp is in an extremely difficult-to-find-and-see place, though it is likely from the 1980s or 1990s (but I have also seen examples from recent years so anything is possible). Artcurial recently sold an extremely rare example in green Doblis suede and Mink from 1980 that brought $6,030 against an estimate of €400 - €600.
A stunning Bleu Marine Shiny Porosus Crocodile Jige GM dating from 1987 is a very rare example of this classic clutch (attractively reserved at $4,000). The GM size has been out of production for some time, and exotic examples are few and far between. I cannot remember the last time I saw a crocodile Jige GM.
Bonhams - London Online - December 8
Preview - December 3, 11:00 - 15:00 & December 4 - 7, 9:00 - 17:00 GMT - Montpelier Street, Knightsbridge, London, SW7 1HH
A 400+ lot sale featuring just 27 Hermes bags, this Bongham’s auction actually has some very noteworthy pieces, including:
A charming and rare shiny black Porosus Kelly Sport PM with Gold hardware from 1993 is a fine example of a rare and increasingly popular style (reasonably estimated at £3,000 - £5,000). The Kelly Sport has gained momentum among collectors recently, and the 20cm PM size is, for obvious reasons, the most sought-after.
A shiny porosus crocodile Kelly 25 from 2001 is presented in a very unusual shade of gray. Cataloged simply as Gris, I have difficulty pinning down exactly what this shade is, as few other shiny gray crocodile bags have come to market. A 1999 example sold by Christie’s in 2018 is described as Gris Fonce, and a 2003 example sold by Christie’s in 2019 is called Gris Tourterelle, but neither matches this example (reasonably estimated at £20,000 - £30,000).
A shocking and fabulous Turquoise Doblis Suede JPG Shoulder Birkin with Palladium hardware from 2008 (reasonably estimated at £5,000 - £8,000). Yes, you read that correctly, a Turquoise Doblis JPG Birkin. I have never seen this particular bag before, but I have seen at least one Doblis JPG Birkin, a black version sold by Hindman in 2017 for $4,000. All I have to say about this bag is Wow.
A Barenia Birkin 40 from 1996 is an exceptional example of a heritage Hermes bag. This period in the 1990s is known as the height of quality for Hermes craftsmanship before their production facilities were expanded to the sprawling multi-campus system they have today. The Barenia has patinaed beautifully and will continue to do so for decades to come. A Birkin of true quality and heritage (conservatively estimated at £5,000 - £8,000).
Sotheby’s - New York Online - December 11
Highlights Preview - December 1 - 6, 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM ET - 1334 York Ave. New York, NY 10021
A nice selection of both newer and vintage bags, this sale has a number of standout pieces worth noting. There are a few rare vintage styles and potential sleeper hits I’ll point out as well:
Aside from the Hima Kellys 28 and 32, this sale is led by a unique and exciting HSS Feather Kelly 32 from 2012. Featuring neon red feathers in a central panel framed by Rouge Vif Tadelakt trim and Palladium hardware, this bag shouts color and pattern. These feather Kellys, assembled by Parisian feather couturier Lemarie, come to market extremely infrequently. The only other brightly colored example like this was an Orange example offered by Heritage in 2018 with a reserve of $110,000 and it failed to sell. Since then, four other feather Kellys have come to auction and sold: A spectacular Mosaique 32cm example by Christie’s in 2021 for $350,000, two So Black Feather Kelly 28s by Christie’s in 2022 for $290,000 and 2023 for $195,000 and a So Black Feather Kelly 32 by Sotheby’s in 2023 for $260,000. This one has an estimate of $100,000 - $180,000.
A Vert d’Eau Matte Alligator Birkin 20 Sellier is the second of its kind to come to auction after Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale of the first for just under $114,000. This one is estimated at $90,000 - $110,000.
The first example of the new leather-wrapped Picnic Birkins makes its auction debut in this sale; a Gold Swift version. These are sure to pique the interest of collectors as the Picnic series has proven quite popular. Reasonably estimated at $40,000 - $60,000.
A shiny Vert Emerald Porosus crocodile Constance Elan with Gold hardware (miscataloged at Matte) from 2013, is well positioned to attract bidders (reasonably estimated at $18,000 - $28,000). Hermes recently showed an updated version of the Constance Elan that is likely to show up in boutiques in the coming seasons, reigniting interest in this style that was discontinued in 2017. Further, the Vert Emerald and Gold combo is an eternally popular and truly beautiful one that has captured the hearts of Hermes lovers for decades.
A lovely tri-color Alligator Kelly 35 (though it looks like a 32 to me) dating from 2000 features Ficelle, Saffran and Miel amidst Gold hardware (conservatively estimated at $12,000 - $16,000). Hermes released a few versions of these tri-color Kellys, one in the early 1990s, another in the late 1990s and again in the early 2000s. At auction, these vintage tri-color 32cm Kellys have averaged over $33,200 with results ranging from $24,000 to $45,000, making the estimate for this example extremely attractive.
A very rare 2007 Black Birkin 30 made from Vache Liegee (miscataloged as Evergrain) is a fantastic example of a rare yet extremely subtle and classic Birkin. Vache Liegee was only produced from 2004 to 2008 as a brief follow-up to the recently discontinued Ardennes. Its grain is more pronounced and its structure is slightly softer. You would be hard-pressed to find another Birkin of these specs; black with Gold hardware being the ultimate classic combo.
An interesting Doblis Suede Kelly 28 in what is being called Chartreuse but I would say is more likely Saffran, has an attractive estimate of just $5,000 - $8,000. It is miscataloged as being from 2015 (date stamp T), and is actually from 1964 (also date stamp T), as can be determined by the lack of “made in France” under the Hermes Paris stamp, and the lack of a zipper on the interior pocket, both of which were added after the 1960s.
Christie’s - New York Online - December 12
Preview - December 1, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM, December 2 - 3, 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM, December 4, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM, December 5, 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM ET - 20 Rockefeller Center, New York, NY 10112
Christie’s Holiday New York auction has many wonderful and interesting bags from Hermes, Chanel and Louis Vuitton. Led by two Diamonds, two Himas, and a Neige Faubourg.
The true star of this auction, and the whole auction season for that matter, is the Sterling Silver Mini Kelly, the first to be offered by a major auction in over seven years! Privately these change hands for a quarter million and up, even for examples without the box or chain (like this one) making the $100,000 - $200,000 estimate quite enticing.
Another extremely exciting bag in this sale is the first leopard print pony hair Birkin to cross the block at a major auction house (estimates at $40,000 - $50,000). A zebra print example was auctioned by Christie’s in 2007 for just under $16,700, and a few other versions of the “Safari” Birkin exist as well, though they are some of the rarest Birkins in the world and almost never surface on the market.
Poly - Hong Kong Online - December 12
Poly has announced their sale on Instagram but I can’t locate it on their website. This will be updated once the auction becomes publically accessible.
As the curtain falls on the December 2023 luxury auction season, it's clear that these events have not only showcased some of the most coveted items in the world of collectible Hermes but have also highlighted the intricate dance between rarity, heritage, and market dynamics. Each piece tells a story of craftsmanship, luxury, and an unyielding quest for beauty. These auctions serve as a reminder that in the realm of luxury goods, value is not just in the material or brand, but in the narratives that these exquisite items carry and the legacy they represent in the ever-changing world of fashion and luxury collectibles.