February Auction Calendar
The early months of 2024 are set to dazzle collectors as auction houses unveil their February offerings. With a spotlight on the crème de la crème of Hermes handbags, auctions promise an unparalleled selection of craftsmanship, rarity, and style. As we delve into the details of these sales, it's clear that the stage is being set for a vibrant year in the Hermes auction market, with exquisite pieces on offer that appeal to collectors looking to add exceptional items to their collections.
Sotheby’s Hong Kong Online February 6 10:00 HKT (Feb 5 21:00 EST)
Sotheby’s inaugural auction of 2024 features over 100 Hermes Birkins, Kellys, and Constances in a striking variety of sizes, colors, and materials. Many rare Limited Editions, unusual Special Orders, well-priced exotics, and quality bags both vintage and new populate the sale.
The top of the sale is led by a So Black Faubourg Birkin estimated at 1,000,000 - 1,500,000 HKD ($130-190K USD), a Matte Gris Ciment Alligator Sellier Birkin 20 at 600,000 - 700,000 HKD ($77-90K USD) and a 2015 Himalayan Birkin 30 at 600,000 - 800,000 HKD ($77-103K USD). These all pale in comparison, though, to the star lot in this auction: A HSS Kelly Sellier 25 in Blue Electric Swift with exquisite leather marquetry on the front panel recreating the Hommage a Gene Kelly scarf pattern in a mixture of multicolor Chevre, Evercolor, Epsom, and Swift. Created specially in celebration of the opening of Hermes’ new NYC flagship boutique at 706 Madison Ave. this is one of the rarest recent Limited Editions Hermes has produced. Estimated at 420,000 - 500,000 HKD ($54-64K USD), this bag could easily top its high estimate and would be a crown jewel in any collection.
Two Diamond Birkins and one Diamond Kelly appear in this auction. The Birkins are both 30s, a Fucshia example from 2006 is miscataloged as Rose Indien, and a Matte Poudre Birkin from 2007 makes a striking impression. The combination of a powdery off-white matte crocodile with diamonds is something I’ve never seen before, and visually it just makes sense. Both are estimated at 400,000 - 600,000 HKD ($52-77K USD), a relative bargain considering Diamond Birkin 30s have previously averaged over $130,000 at auction and retail for far more. A Shiny Black Porosus Kelly 20 with Diamond encrusted 18K Gold hardware from the 1990s is a prime example of Hermes’ earliest attempts at adorning Kellys with diamonds. Unlike regular Kelly 20s, this comes with a lock, keys, and clochette, the former of which holds the lion’s share of the lot’s stones. Estimated at 300,000 - 500,000 HKD ($38-64K USD). It has been four years since one of these rare Kellys has sold at auction and we only have records of five examples ever crossing the block, averaging just over $53,000.
Two rare exotic Birkin 30s are also worth noting, both conservatively estimated for different reasons. An HSS Shiny Rose Scheherazade Porosus Birkin 30 with Macassar handles, sangles, piping and lining, contrast stitching, and brushed gold hardware from 2017 in great-looking condition seems like a bargain at the estimated 200,000 - 300,000 HKD ($26-38K USD) until you see in the last photo that the initials YAO are stamped in gold under the brand stamp. Womp womp. Similar bags have averaged over $72,500 at auction, so the lesson here is never to get your initials stamped on your bag unless you plan to be buried with it. As a foil to this, a shiny and matte Colvert porosus crocodile Ghillies Birkin 30 from 2015 (one of the finest and rarest versions of the Ghillies design) appears with an even lower estimate of 180,000 - 280,000 HKD ($23-36K USD). Only three other examples of all-croc Ghillies Birkins have ever sold at auction, all 35s, which averaged over $67,000, but this Birkin, though it is a 30, is in noticeably well-used condition. A quick glance at the photos reveals, creasing, scuffing, and watermarks (all this despite the plastic remaining on most of the hardware), thus the estimate suddenly makes sense. It will be an interesting result to see!
Heritage Auction Dallas Live & Online February 22 11:00 CT (12:00 EST)
A tight selection of about 25 Hermes Birkins, Kellys, and Constances are on offer in Heritage’s February sale. A Yucca Swift Kelly 25 is the first appearance of this color at auction with an opening bid of $12,000 (Heritage recently did away with estimates in favor of only offering a starting bid). An HSS Kelly 20 in Blue Royale and White Epsom makes a strong impression and goes well with 2024’s predicted trend of crispy-sporty-chic, also starting at $12,000. A Rouge H Fjord Birkin 35 from 2007 is a good opportunity to acquire a classic piece in a discontinued Heritage leather, the current bid as of this writing is $4,100.
As we reflect on the forthcoming outcomes and the remarkable pieces that will find new custodians, it's evident that the appetite for luxury handbags, especially those from Hermes, remains insatiable among collectors and fashion lovers. These auctions not only celebrate the artistry of Hermes but also reinforce the brand's unparalleled position in the luxury world, promising an exciting future for collectors and auctions alike.