Jean-Paul Gaultier at Hermes - Part I
2004-2007
An enigmatic legend of French fashion, Jean-Paul Gaultier is known primarily for his daring couture and iconic contributions to fashion’s history. Torso-shaped perfume bottles and Madonna’s cone bra are what most people first associate with JPG, but his position in Hermes’ history reserves this designer a special place in many Birkin and Kelly collector’s hearts. The relationship between Gaultier and Hermes officially took form in 1999 when the historic French house took a 35% ownership stake in the then 46 year old designer’s company, which had been making waves in the fashion world for over two decades at that point.
In 2003 Gaultier was appointed Hermes’ Creative Director, taking over the role from Martin Margiela who had helmed the brand since 1997, overseeing an era of sophisticated minimal designs that showcased the brand’s spectacular materials and timeless elegance. Gaultier’s first show was an abrupt turn towards a fantastical expression of Hermes’ heritage. Sending models down the runway clad in exquisitely crafted leather and crocodile clothing, embellished with iconic Kelly closures, holding whips along with their bags, from this first presentation on Gaultier would be known for delivering show stopping collections.
His first runway also saw the inclusion of what arguably makes Gaultier such an important figure in today’s world of Hermes collecting: new bags. His affinity for redesigning the classics got off to a break-neck start with the runway reveals of both the JPG Shoulder Birkin and the now iconic Kelly Pochette. Along with other special ‘runway only’ Birkins and Kellys, such as an example in this show created from the back of the alligator, rather than its belly, and new designs like the Pochette would become a staple of Gaultier’s shows.
His Fall 2005 show brought us the Mouton Shearling Teddy Kelly 35 and the Sterling silver Kelly, both of which are among the most difficult Kellys to find today. These walked along with silk scarf-panelled Kellys and JPG Birkins that were likely produced as one-offs for the show. Spring 2006 saw a group of bi-color Kelly Longues accompanying silk examples, none of which seem to have made it into production. Kellys in leather and exotic materials populate the rest of the show, in sizes ranging from 28cm to 15cm.
Fall of that year abounded with exotic Birkins and Kellys, but also Suede Birkins and JPG Birkins. The sophisticated Leinage Birkin, which features a plaid wool body, made its first appearance here accompanied by a matching plaid suit. Collectors, though, will never be able to find elsewhere the JPG Birkin with a sable fur body and the Birkin sporting a fair-isle knit body, which have never been seen outside this show.
Spring 2007 introduced us to the Lindy, the Medor clutch and the Kelly Flat. Fall 2007 brought us examples of the latter in matte alligator and suede, along with Kelly pochettes and the now highly collectible Mouton Shearling Teddy Kelly Muff, which appeared in leather, suede, and crocodile (lined with mink).
Stay tuned and subscribe to be updated when the second and third parts of this series on Jean-Paul Gaultier drop. The next post will follow the second half of his time at Hermes, followed by a post exploring the auction results for his most collectible designs.