Jean-Paul Gaultier at Hermes - Part II

2008-2011

Continued from the previous post…

By the time Gaultier showed his Spring 2008 collection for Hermes, the designer was already well entrenched in the House’s history. Having reinvented the iconic Kelly and Birkin bags with exciting new designs like the Pochette and JPG Birkin, no one could guess what the man would do next. While his Spring 2008 show had little by way of new designs, fall of that year would usher in what is arguably his most lasting gift to the the brand: the Jypsiere. Essentially a crossbody Birkin, the First Jypsieres that walked the runway were crafted of unique materials such as suede and shearling, and from the unfinished back-side of crocodile skin. Accompanying this was another revolutionary take on an iconic design: the So Kelly. This elongated shoulder bag visually draws on the discontinued Kelly Sport, bringing the style to a casual level with a soft body. The first examples of the Silky City also walked this runway, though these examples were made of unique Edwardian tapestries and, like the Jypsieres in this show, were never made available for sale.

Spring 2009 brought us Medor clutches in Suede and Ombre Lizard, which have never been seen elsewhere, as well as Suede Jypsieres, Suede Fringe JPG Kellys and Suede Trim Anates, which have recently been reintroduced with multicolor fringe. One particular bag of note in this show as a JPG Kelly made of Karung, a skin Hermes almost never uses.

Fall of that year debuted the Verrou Elan, a modern take on a nearly century-old design, as well as unique Kelly Cuts in Teddy Mouton Shearling and Astrakhan Persian Lamb. But most notably, Fall 2009 introduced us to the Shadow Birkin, which walked in both brown and black leather, as well as an example in Suede that has never been seen elsewhere. This design has proven extremely popular with collectors and has recently been reissued in a diminutive 25cm size.

Spring 2010 was a sporty season at Hermes. Massive 50cm Retourne Kellys walked with special cases for tennis rackets and tennis balls, as did 50cm Relax Kellys made from snakeskin that would never be seen again. The Shadow Birkin reappeared in a summer suit, in both 35 and 40cm sizes, clad with either denim or toile bodies. Most memorably, a Himalayan Birkin 30 walked this runway. The Himalayan had been around already for a number of years but was known only to some at this point, a mythological bag to most. By showing it on the runway Gaultier cemented the Hima’s position among other Birkins. In his next show, a Gris Cendre version would serve as a tantalizing follow up.

Fall of 2010 opened with an exquisite and unique black Kelly dotted with tiny silver studs. This would be accompanied later in the show by a 25cm version, neither of which made it to production. The Himalayan made two appearances as a 25cm Birkin and as 30cm Gris Cendre. An Orange crocodile 20cm Kelly also walked in this show, even though the size had been discontinued years prior. A crocodile Kelly Danse made its way down the runway as well. A 40cm Mouton Shearling Teddy Kelly referenced the designer’s first show, and is now highly collectable, as would be the Teddy Kelly Pochette that appeared in this show if it ever were to be made available. What was most memorable about the bags on this runway, though, was the So Blacks, three of which emerged on the runway; two Kelly Cuts in Box leather and Matte Alligator, and one 35cm Matte Alligator So Black Birkin. These bags have gone on to become some of the most sought-after designs Hermes has ever made.

Spring 2011, Gaultier’s final runway show with Hermes, arrived with a bevy of new designs. The 15cm Micro Birkin made its first appearance, and the 35cm Picnic Kelly was introduced in both Fauve and Black. This would go on to become one of the most highly collectable Hermes bags ever produced. Along with this was a flat belt bag called the Kelly Bandeau that one model wore as a tube-top. This design was produced in extremely limited numbers and is highly sought after today by collectors. Examples of Kellys and Pochettes made from colored Shagreen Stingray walked this show as well, though none ever made it into production. One bag that had attendees scratching their heads was a Kelly made from what appeared to be translucent crocodile. This piece was never put into production, and the mystery of how it was made endures to this day.

I hope you enjoyed this overview of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Hermes runway bags. Stay tuned for Part III which will look into the auction values of JPG’s most collectible designs.