The international market for luxury handbags is about to witness a series of events that will showcase exquisite collections of Hermes bags, each offering a narrative of elegance and exclusivity. Particularly intriguing highlights discussed below set the stage for what promises to be a series of competitive bids and record-setting prices. As we delve into the realm of these sartorial masterpieces, enthusiasts and collectors are poised to add unparalleled value and timeless style to their private collections. The anticipation is palpable as each event draws near, signaling a pinnacle moment for this growing market.
Sotheby’s Geneva auction is a relatively small sale containing 90 Hermes bags. The lead lot is one we haven’t seen often at auction; a So Black Croc Kelly 32. Though lacking its distinct black box, yet retaining its black dustbag, this is the smallest So Black Kelly produced, positioning it well to succeed. Appearing only four times at auction so far, and averaging just over $78,500 with one result topping $112,000 at Christie’s in 2017, this example, starting at 60,000 CHF will bring a minimum of $83,750 inclusive of auction fees if it sells. In addition:
A Vert Fizz Togo Birkin 25 is the first bag I’ve seen in Vert Fizz Togo, a color predominantly produced in Swift and Epsom. It very likely could be a miscataloged Gris Neve, a new gray with just a whisper of minty green. And:
A Barenia Constance I-24 with the mirror insert dating from 2023 is on offer with no reserve. A very rare interpretation of this classic design to be sure, and one that I had not yet seen.
Christie’s Paris November 14
Christie’s Paris Auction, Handbags Online: The Paris Edit contains some 155 or so Hermes bags. The leading lot in this sale, though, is a Gucci bag created specially for the sale featuring a solid 18K Gold and Diamond handle. Regarding Hermes bags, the sale is lead by two Himas, a 2021 Kelly 28 and a 2015 Birkin 30.
More unusual, though, is the Matte Jaune Ambre Alligator Birkin 35, an extremely rare color to find in a matte exotic, this being its first appearance at auction.
A rare Black Doblis Suede Mini Kelly from 1994 presents a unique opportunity, as vintage Mini Kellys in rare materials like Doblis Suede have become difficult to find and highly sought-after by collectors. Only five Suede Mini Kellys have sold at auction in the past 13 years, with results nearly doubling at each subsequent appearance.
A Vache Naturelle Birkin 35 from 2007 appears shockingly well preserved, and an extremely rare Medor Shoulder Bag from 1994 in White Evercalf with Gold hardware presents a truly special opportunity for collectors to acquire one of the least known and most elegant Hermes designs.
Lastly, a rare Couverture de Jour Kelly 32 from 2010 is on offer in the red colorway. This distinct printed canvas is rarely seen on the market these days.
Christie’s Hong Kong November 25
A very strong auction that will take place live in Hong Kong, this sale includes a number of extremely rare and first-to-auction bags. Starting with:
A Custom Himalaya Constance Elan with brown diamond hardware, which leads the sale, comes with an estimate of $230,000 - $360,000, potentially setting a new auction record for Constance bags.
A full set of Faubourg Birkins is also on offer, the first time a Place du Faubourg or Beijing Courtyard has appeared in totality in one sale. Auction prices for these bags have been relatively stable, with Midnight examples averaging $188,000 (Record: $236,500) Day (Record: $225,400) and Night (Record: $258,000) versions averaging $184,000 each and Snow versions taking the top spot with an average auction price of $256,000 (Record: $322,500). It will be very interesting to see if the results for the four offered here will top the averages, or even the records, as all were set by Christie’s. But more exciting for me is:
A Gris Cendre Himalaya Kelly 25 from 2015, the first Gris Cendre Hima Kelly to come to auction. Accounting for less than 3% of all Himas sold at auction, Gris Cendres are distinct for their darker gray coloring and Fauve interiors. It has been five years since a Gris Cendre Hima Birkin last sold at auction, a Birkin 30 that achieved nearly $109,000 at Christie’s in 2018, and the record is held by another Birkin 30 that sold at Heritage in 2017 for $112,500. A single Diamond Gris Cendre Hima Birkin 30 also crossed the block at Christie’s in 2020 achieving over $322,500.
Both versions of the Kelly Wood are also on offer for the first time in the same sale. The Bog Oak Larme version has averaged $172,500 at auction with the record set at Christie’s in 2021 at $257,600; the first example to sell at auction. The Beechwood and marquetry leather Perspective Cavalier version averages $158,500 with the record set at Christie’s earlier this year at $176,400. An even more rare Kelly though, is:
A So Black Feather Kelly 28 from 2010, the third So Black Feather Kelly to sell at auction. Interestingly, no examples of this extremely rare bag had come to auction until 2023, when Christie’s sold a 28cm example in Paris for nearly $287,000 followed by Sotheby’s sale of a 32cm example in Hong Kong for nearly $260,000.
A shockingly original custom Kelly Danse is a first-to-auction piece featuring multicolor fringes that weave into the Matte Lime Alligator body.
A rare Sellier Kelly 28 from 2017 is an early example of the Touch line, and is extremely unusual for its Matte Alligator body. Matte Alligator or Crocodile is nearly never found in Sellier construction.
A Kelly 32 in true Barenia Alligator is the second bag to come to auction in this rare material. Far more special than regular Fauve Barenia Alligator, true Barenia alligator is treated similarly to Barenia leather and has a unique finish and feel. It also features a brand stamp without foil, which visually distinguishes this rarity from its more common cousins. And since I don’t have the space to discuss every fabulous lot in this sale I’ll finish with:
A rare vintage Kelly 20 done in pleated black satin with Rouge Vif Doblis suede trim from 1999 appears to be in exceptionally well preserved condition. Over the past five years examples of these silk mini Kellys have averaged nearly $29,500 at auction, though most examples are all-black and many have condition issues. The record for the style, though is held by a Black example from 1993 that sold at Christie’s in 2019 for nearly $48,000.
Though the auction is taking place in Dallas on December 7th, online bidding opens for this sale on November 11th, and the catalog is already live online. Lead by a Hima Kelly 28 from 2022, this sale also includes a Hima Birkin 30 from 2008, the first year of production for the Himas that today rank among the most valuable bags in the world.
A Côte à Côte Birkin 30, is the first of its size to come to auction, the first 25 coming up in Christie’s Hong Kong Sale later this month.
A Vert Moyen Grizzly Birkin 35 from 2012 is the first example in this rare color to come to auction, and a So Black Kelly Cut is only the third example in Box leather to come to auction.
Another first-to-auction is an extremely rare vintage Kelly 20 with a Crinoline body and Parchemin Box trim dating from 1996, which is accompanied by a classic Black Box example from 1998. And:
A Teddy Kelly Muff from 2007 is offered at an opportune time, as the new Mini Teddy Kellys are fast becoming the must-have bag of the season. The sides of this rather impractical design can be sewn together (in an easily reversible way, ideally) to transform this muff into a clutch similar in shape to the Kelly Longue.
The closing of these international events marks more than the exchange of high-value goods; it represents the intersection of artistry, desire, and the investment savvy of Hermes aficionados. The offerings have spanned rare finds and contemporary classics, each carrying the weight of Hermes' storied craftsmanship. With the potential for auction records to be shattered, these events have underscored the insatiable demand for luxury handbags. Collectors remain eager, their passions fueled by the chance to own a piece of fashion history. As we await the next chapter in this high-stakes arena of luxury collectibles, the narrative of these coveted accessories continues to captivate and entice those who appreciate the finer bags in life.
The following sales have not yet posted their catalogs, check back for Part 2 later this month:
Bonham’s Los Angeles November 20
Artcurial Paris November 21
Gros & Deletrez Paris Mens’ November 21
Bonham’s Paris November 23
Gros & Deletrez Paris November 28
Hindman Chicago December 1