October Auction Calendar
Exceptional Rarities from Sotheby's & Poly in Hong Kong
In October 2023, the world of luxury auctions will witness a grand spectacle. With the first offerings of rare Hermes bags taking the center stage, these auctions offer collectors the opportunity to acquire some of the finest bags in the world. Poly Auction makes a promising return post-pandemic, offering a strong assortment, while Sotheby’s has curated a plethora of bags that could make any enthusiast's heart race. As we delve into the intricacies of each auction, one can anticipate a captivating journey through the finest and rarest pieces that have defined and continue to shape the world of Hermes bags.
Heritage Auctions October 5th Luxury Accessories Signature® Auction #5542 was discussed in our September Auction Calendar
Poly Auction - Noble Handbags & Hype Collectibles
5 October 2023 15:30 HKT - Hong Kong - HKF2923
Poly’s Fall Auction signals this smaller house’s return after a dramatic pandemic slump. Led by a Kelly Wood in the spectacular Perspective Cavalier pattern (the third example to come to auction), and a 2019 Hima Birkin 25, the sale abounds with small matte exotics, recent Limited Editions, and a smattering of older interesting pieces which round out the offering of 79 bags in this 159 lot sale. A Beton Matte Alligator Sellier Birkin 25 is the second Matte Sellier Birkin to come to auction, after Bonham’s sale of the first in September 2023 for approximately $73,500. The second Rock Birkin 25 will also cross the block during this sale. Christie’s Shanghai Auction in September 2023 sold the first for just over $60,000.
My favorite vintage pieces in this sale are a pair of Kellys, both of which bare some unfortunate miscatalogings. A Tangerine Ostrich Retourne Kelly 25 from 2004 is striking for its color (Which is Tangerine, not Orange as cataloged), a shade that is soaring popularity this year, but also for the rarity of Ostrich Retourne Kelly 25s in general. The second, erroneously described as “Limited Edition Black Epsom” is a rare Black Veau Grain Lisse Sellier Kelly 28 from 2002. Veau Grain Lisse is grained similar to Epsom, but has a somewhat shiny and unique finish, and sports bold white stitching. This example appears to have been maintained in exceptional condition, with the plastic intact on the hardware even after 20+ years.
Sotheby’s - Handbags & Accessories
12 October 2023 - 10:00 HKT - Hong Kong
Sotheby’s has assembled what is easily one of the most spectacular selections of bags offered in any auction in years. Of the 262 lots on offer, 92 are exotics, 68 are limited editions, with 89 Birkins, 90 Kellys, 20 Constances, 4 Picnics and 2 Himas, just to give you a rough idea of the overall scope we’re dealing with. When selecting which highlights to mention here, I had to do multiple rounds of cuts and still couldn’t quite get it down to ten, so here are my top 11 lots from this most fabulous of auctions (oh how I wish it were a live sale and not held entirely online - though an exhibition will be open in Hong Kong from October 2 through October 6)
The top lot in this sale is a highly debatable matter. Three important firsts could all reasonably claim the spot. The highest estimated though, is the Diamond Mini Kelly 20 in shiny Black Porosus Crocodile, with a rough estimate of $140,000 - $215,000. This is the first Diamond Mini Kelly to come to auction, and examples sold privately on the secondary market have been very scarce. Another exciting first is the entrance of the highly sought after Sellier Birkin 20, this example done in Matte Vert d’Eau Alligator. The Birkin 20 was first produced exclusive in the ultra-rare Faubourg style, but in 2023, other exotic Birkin 20s began to emerge and have been extremely hard to come by on the secondary market. The third “First” that vies for this sale’s top spot is a Sterling Silver Mesh Mini Kelly Bijou. The original Sterling Mini Kelly, which was produced in the 1990s, has been conspicuously absent from the auction market for nearly 8 years now, with examples trading privately for upwards of a quarter million dollars. Examples of the new mesh Silver Kelly have been very hard to track down, though one recently popped up (and sold in minutes) on Hermes’ Canada website, spurring speculation many more may be produced soon (the retail price is about $45,000, and this example is estimated at about $90,000 - $130,000). A Rock Birkin 25 will be the third example sold at auction.
Four exotics that got me particularly excited are pictured above. A Black Lizard Birkin 30 will be the third Lizard Birkin in this size sold at auction, and with an opening bid of about $30,000 it is a tantalizing rarity to be sure. One of only two Kelly Pochettes in this sale, a Vert Emerald Alligator example with Gold hardware from 2015 is a currently popular bag in a perennially popular combination. Emerald with Gold is one of the most beloved exotics for its unparalleled richness, and only one other example of a Pochette in this combo has ever come to auction, sold by Christie’s in 2020 for just over $31,000. But by far the two bags that excited me the most in this sale were the Aizomes. An ancient Indigo dyeing technique from Japan, in recent years Hermes has been quitely creating unique exotic skins using the this technique. Resulting in three different tones of blue: Hanada, Aizome and Tomekon, Matte Porosus Crocodile, Ostrich, Matte Lizard and Porc have all been dyed with this traditional method. Sotheby’s sale not only offers the first bag from this rare series, they offer two! A Hanada Matte Porosus Sellier Kelly 28 and a Tomekon Matte Nilo Lizard Constance 18. With the six-figure results recently achieved by the first true Barenia Alligator Birkin 30s at Christie’s, my hopes for these equally rare exotics are high.
As if that wasn’t enough, three unbelievable Birkin 30s are also put forward in this sale. Kiwi Crocodile is an extremely rare shade that I have only seen twice before. It is arguably the brightest shiny green croc Hermes has ever produced. It is so rare Sotheby’s has cataloged this bag as “Green Apple” which I presume is a translation of Vert Cru, a bright green produced in leather from the late 1990’s through 2006, then briefly again in 2012. Kiwi was a Candy Collection color that was only produced in 2010 and 2011. A Kiwi Porosus Crocodile Kelly Cut was the highest selling example of the style, still holding the record it set at Heritage in 2014 at just under $60,000. Sotheby’s example is not just a Kiwi Crocodile Birkin 30, but a DIAMOND Kiwi Crocodile Birkin 30, arguably one of the boldest and brightest Diamond Birkins ever produced, with a rough estimate of $65,000 - $90,000, the recent increased interest in Greens should help drive this rare bag well above its estimated range, along with the rarity of its shade, which is en par with that of the Rose BonBon Crocodile Vintage Mini Kelly 20 Sotheby’s Sold earlier in 2023 for over $150,000. Alongside this is the second ever Metallic Birkin 30 to come to auction, a Silver Chevre example that follows Sotheby’s June 2023 sale of the first for $101,600. The third ever Fringe Birkin will also be on offer; the first 30 in this rare variation to cross the block after Christie’s sale of a 25 in 2020 for $80,625 and Sotheby’s sale of a 35 in 2023 for $72,800. This makes Sotheby’s $16,000 - $23,000 estimate for their 30 extremely appealing, though very likely to be topped multiple times over.
October promises a whirlwind of luxury and rarity, especially at Sotheby's in Hong Kong. These auctions not only highlight the objective rarity and timeless appeal of collectible Hermes Birkins and Kellys, but also underscore the increasing value and demand for such exquisite pieces in the global market. With unparalleled collections, these sales present an opportunity for connoisseurs and collectors alike to own a piece of history, be it a vintage marvel or a contemporary trophy. As the gavel falls on these magnificent lots, we're reminded of the enduring allure of Hermes and the ever-evolving narrative of luxury.