September 2022 Newsletter
The Fall Season has Begun!
With Labor Day behind us, the fall 2022 auction season has begun! Bidding is open online for auctions at Christie’s in Hong Kong and Sotheby’s in New York. As the calendar fills up with auctions around the globe, BagWatch is on-call to report all the noteworthy offerings and results!
Sotheby’s - New York Online through September 19
Sotheby’s first auction of the season offers up 107 Hermes lots, led by a Blue Faubourg Birkin, a 2014 30cm Hima, and a Rouge Sellier Picnic Birkin. The Picnic Birkin is only the second of its kind to come to auction, and the result of its sale here will help determine the value of these bags going forward, which have been trading privately for six figures, though Christie’s initial offering of the style came just shy of that benchmark last season.
A distinct 25cm Sellier Kelly in Black Box catches the eye with its bold white stitching. This Palladium-topped piece is from 2007 and was likely a Special Order, though lacks the iconic Horse Shoe Stamp (HSS), as this was first introduced in 2006 and was reportedly optional the first two years.
A Black Box Retourne Kelly, this one a 28cm example, is another special order, featuring the HSS. Dating from 2011, it also sports Palladium hardware, and a Rouge H interior. This makes the Kelly into what is sometimes called a Louboutin Bag invoking the Italian shoemaker’s iconic red soles.
A 35cm Peau Porc Sellier Kelly from 1994 is a spectacular example of this rare leather. Porc has been seen recently in a few 25cm Birkins, but is primarily found as Vintage Kellys. This one has been maintained in exceptional condition.
Christie’s - Hong Kong Online through September 14th
Christie’s first auction of the season contains 172 Hermes bags. For a Hong Kong based auction at Christie’s these bags seem to skew larger and older, leading us to believe they are holding back the best stuff for their upcoming live Hong Kong auction in November. This selection is led by a Blue Faubourg Birkin and a 2014 30cm Hima. The head-to-head match-up of these two same top bags at Sotheby’s will be an interesting test on the differences between the two auction houses.
A 32cm Tri-Material Kelly should not go overlooked by collectors. This Limited Edition has proven a favorite among those who love to use their bags. The Box leather handle and Sangle hold up to regular use, while the Clemence sides make the bag extra easy. The matte alligator body is, in many collectors’ minds, a better use for a touch of exotic than the current Touch collection.
An unusual tri-color Special Order Birkin 30 catches they eye with its distinct color layout. Typically tri-color Birkins feature matching handles, Sangle, and sides, whereas the Sangle here match the flap, which in turn is unusual for contrasting the back that matches the front (usually the flap and back match, contrasting the front). The effect is unique and the dark handles speak to the deftness with which this Birkin was designed. Dating from 2005, this is another example of a special order bag that lacks the now iconic HSS stamp.
Heritage Auctions - Online September 12th-October 6th
Heritage’s fall auction is doozy with over 600 lots in all, over 100 of which are Hermes bags. The auction is led by a 30cm Diamond Hima from 2016 with a low estimate of $400,000. Heritage’s last sale of a Diamond Hima was in 2014 for around $187,500, the first Diamond Hima ever to be sold at auction. As these still average under $300,000 at auction, with the record set just under $382,000, the sale of this bag is less than a forgone conclusion. Store-fresh Diamond Hima 30s do trade privately for $450,000-$550,000, though, so the possibility is there.
A 1992 Black Crocodile Kelly 20 is enticingly estimated at just $12,000-$16,000. Though not in perfect condition, the current dealer prices for this style in crocodile mostly top $40K.
A Rouge Sellier Shadow Birkin 25 is also estimated at a surprisingly low $12,000-$18,000 considering this style averages over $46,000 at auction and has yet to sell below $40,000. Ranked as Condition 1, this could be a fantastic opportunity to get an otherwise impossible deal.
Many collectors’ eyes will light up at the sight of a stunning grey crocodile Lyn bag from 2000. The Lyn is unique for the built-in clock adorning its flap.
Articles
Hermès HSS Colors - The Rise of Neutral
Think Pink (Hermès)
J’Adore à Dos!
The Complete Guide to the Hermès Birkin Faubourg
Big Birkin Bags are Coming Back: Now is the Time to Buy
Étoupe, A Must Have Neutral for the Hermès Bag Collector
(original title: Étoupe Brute?)